Foundation Basics: Prep

As part of my little foundation basics series this post will focus on preparing the skin for application of foundation. Including  skincare regime and Primer recommendations, skincare is a part of cosmetics, where it doesn’t hurt to invest in and it is usually worth the spend. Our skin type can determine how a foundation, settles, emphasises, blends and a multitude of other factors of how it wears on the skin. Every persons skin type had different requirements, hence why preparing your skin in a way that is suited to you is significant for creating that flawless canvas. 

Having a good and consistent skincare regime is one of the first steps to creating a flawless canvas for your painting. Making sure you remove your makeup and cleanse your skin before you go to bed gives it a chance to rest, repair and do it’s natural thing.    

REMOVING MAKEUP

Removing your makeup at the end of your event or day at times can feel heart breaking as the makeup can be the only remittence and memory of the night. Making sure you remove your makeup and cleanse your skin before you go to bed gives it a chance to rest, repair and do it’s natural thing.    

PRIMER

What is primer? If we think of a canvas or painting a wall we would prime the surface with something like gesso or a thick paint, or gap filler so the surface is smooth with no bumps holes, the paint glides on so there is no patchiness or uneven colour or skip to the surface. Essentially that concept also equates to your face. A primer can be applied with fingers or a brush and should only a thin layer should be seamlessly blended. Primers also assist with the longevity of your makeup, others have mattifying properties , or they may have a sheen or glow to it to give your skin a subtle radiance. 

CLEANSER

A cleanser os a product used to remove oils, impurities, and makeup from the skin. Using a cleanser assists in unclogging pores which helps with preventing blemishes or break-outs. 

TONER

A toner is a liquid used to remove impurities, natural skin build up or the residue of cleanser. Using a toner can be beneficial in completing the cleansing of your skin,functions of other toners include restoring PH levels, hydration and soothing. If you don’t want to fork out for a toner there are many DIY toner recipes online or using Rose water can be just as effective.For more information about toner CLICK HERE

MOISTURISER

A moisturiser is a cream, lotion, balm or gel product that is used to keep the skin soft and hydrated. Using a moisturiser will assist with replenishing the skin, and should do so without feeling greasy. A moisturiser will benefit in keeping your skin soft so rough patches and dry skin aren’t accentuated.

PRIMER

What is primer? If we think of a canvas or painting a wall we would prime the surface with something like gesso or a thick paint, or gap filler so the surface is smooth with no bumps holes, the paint glides on so there is no patchiness or uneven colour or skip to the surface. Essentially that concept also equates to your face. A primer can be applied with fingers or a brush and should only a thin layer should be seamlessly blended. Primers also assist with the longevity of your makeup, others have mattifying properties , or they may have a sheen or glow to it to give your skin a subtle radiance. 

COLOUR CORRECTION

The aim of colour correcting is to neutralise the colour so you can have the most flawless and true foundation colour.  For example; if you have very prominent redness and you find that skin coloured concealers don’t quite conceal enough and redness is still peaking through, using a green concealer will help in neutralising the red. Using an opposing  coloured concealer on the colour wheel will dramatically reduce the appearance of featured such as discolouration, dark circles, redness, bruises, and in some cases tattoos.

color_wheel-300x300

ALMOST AT FOUNDATION

 I have written up a guide of appropriate products,for a regime to complement different skin types as a checklist of some steps to take before application.  CLICK HERE to find your skin type

  1. Ensuring our skin is clean with no residue use a cleanser, exfoliate if needed.
  2. To keep the skin supple, plump and smooth apply a moisturiser suited to your skin
  3. Prime if necessary 

Normal : Normal skin types are reasonably balanced, few blemishes, looks plump and smooth. You most likely don’t need products that are ‘rich in hydration’ or ‘mattifying’

  • Apply a gentle cleanser or micellar water, or toner to ensure there is no residue on the face. A foaming cleanser,gel based or cream that doesn’t leave your skin feeling tight, a lightweight daily moisturi ser would be suited to you. Lush 9 to 5 Cleanser
  • A light moisturiser with SPF with help the skin keep supple and retain moisture, to ensure the foundation will on smooth. Wait a few minutes for the moisturiser to sink in. Simple Kind to Skin moisturiser or Cetaphil daily moisturiser
  • As individuals with a Normal Skin Type have few blemishes, and already quite smooth skin a primer isn’t necessary, however if you feel your makeup doesn’t glide on as well as it could a silicone based primer can provide with giving a bit more slip or Revlon Photoready Primer glycerine will help it stay on the face longer Rimmel Lasting Finish Primer

Oily: An oily skin type through-out the day will become shiny, and feel greasy

  • With oily skin you want a cleanser to remove oils without over drying the face.A cleanser that is Soap and Alcohol free, makes sure your skin doesn’t get stripped from it’s natural oil, otherwise it will produce more oil to combat the dryness. Like wise a cleanser with oil with promote the production of oils and can leave you feeling un-wantingly  greasy. Oily skin can be prone to acne, you may find that cleansers targeted towards acne may also suit you. A foaming cleanser such as or Neutrogena fresh foaming cleanser  which is soap/oil free and good for sensitive skin. Biore Charcoal Cleanser targets drawing out oils and impurities from pores.
  • You may find that using a toner such as Witch Hazel , can help balance the skins PH levels and help your moisturiser absorb into the skin. 
  • Contrary to popular belief you oily skin individuals need moisturiser too! A moisturiser that is non greasy, alcohol free, and lightweight. A moisturiser like Simple Kind to Skin Hydrating Moisturiser  or a different formula such as a gel usually dries down leaving the skin feeling as though there is no product so there won’t be a heavy feeling. Same goes with a sunscreen, a light weight and fast drying won’t leave a greasy film or residue .
  •  After your moisturiser has dried using a primer that is mattify-ing and fills in pores will be a game changer. A primer that fills in pores will minimise the size of the pores and prevent more oils coming through creating a smoother, even surface. A mattifying primer with provide a dry or powder like finish on the skin, so oils are kept at bay for a bit longer, Benefit Porefessional  is a classic in the makeup world. Another is one that is newer to the makeup world Revlon Photoready prime+ anti-shine balm is a two in one, it primes the skin providing a smooth base and the anti-shine helps minimise shine throughout the day.
  • If you are some-one who gets extremely oily I would suggest to keep blotting tissues with you to touch up excessive oils

Combination: Combination skin consists of both oiliness and dryness. Generally the T zone becomes oily where areas like cheeks and eyes are dry. You may need to adjust your products according to the climate or skin changes.

  • Conquering combination skin at times can be tricky, especially if different sections vary. Sometimes it is a process of trial and error to see what works for you. For a cleanser, you don’t want anything that will strip your skin nor leave a film or residue . At the moment I have really been loving Clinique Liquid Face Soap it is suitable to most skin types, it is non-drying and doesn’t leave the skin feeling ‘taunt’, and it is also recommended for oily T-zone .Myself along with my teenage sister and mum all use this cleanser and it suits all of our needs .
  • For Combination Skin an all rounder moisturiser should do the trick. Of course if you lean more oily or dry you can adapt to a different product. One that I liked a few years back when I started skincare was Botani Boost Balancing moisturiser it has tea tree in it which was fantastic for blemishes. Sukin Facial moisturiser is a bit richer and leaves the skin feeling plump.
  • Combination skin may need a different primer for each section such as a pore filling or mattifying primer for the T zone that gets oily Maybelline Baby Skin and a smoothing primer in dryer or textured areas. Smash Box Photo Finish Primer
  • Dry: Dry skin doesn’t maintain or hold natural oils, often flaky, appear matte, feel tight, feels rough
  • Having dry skin you may need to exfoliate any flaky or dry patches, use a very gentle exfoliant and DO NOT over exfoliate becasue that will make your skin drier. I find using a Coffee scrub or a Konjac Sponge works really well.
  • For a cleanser, rich cream or lotion products tend to be the most appropriate because they don’t foam up, they tend to say ‘soothe’, ‘moisturising’ or ‘hydrating’. Avoid cleansers with alcohol, fragrance and soap as those ingredients often strip skin. I like Jacqueline Evans Castille Cream Cleanser and massage it into my skin and to rinse it off with a warm wash cloth.
  • I know dry skin individuals can be quite iffy with toners, using a hydrating mist or Rose-water is just as effective with restoring your skins balance and absorbing moisturiser.
  • MOISTURISER our best friend! As with everything if you use too much or too often it can be counter productive. I find putting on moisturiser with a slightly damp face leaves skin feeling much more plump and soft. Lately I’ve been liking Natio intensive day cream it takes a bit longer to dry but it doesn’t feel greasy or heavy.
  • Nower days it seems like all you hear it “mattifying”, “Long Lasting with no shine” which to us dry skin individuals is  everything we don’t want to hear. You can find hydrating primers that generally have glycerine in them with helps soften skin but  provides a bit of tackiness so makeup will stay to the face, one I haven’t tried but heard good things about is Laura Mercier Hydrating Primer and a smoothing primer like Revlon PhotoReady Colour correcting Primer for  texture . If you are wanting radiance or a glow L’oreal Magic Lumi Primer can be a nice bonus

 

Sensitive/Eczema/Extremely Dry : Someone with Sensitive skin often will have a reaction when trying new products that don’t work with skin ( irritation, increased redness, swell/inflammation)

  • You may find it really difficult taking off your makeup due to the irritation, wear a lot of makeup due to the reaction your skin may have, DO NOT LOSE HOPE cosmetic technology has come a long way and there are products out there that will work for you ( for more sensitive skin info CLICK HERE ) .My friend who has dry sensitive skin uses Clinique and Sukin such as  Sukin sensitive skin cleanser or a cream cleanser like Jacqueline Evans Castille Cream Cleanser . Products that have fragrances, alcohol or parabens should be avoided because they will cause irritation. If you find traditional cleansers too harsh a Micellar Water like the Simple Micellar water or Sukin Micellar Water is far more gentle to the skin however it still removes makeup and cleanses the skin.
  • Toner may be too harsh or irritating for your skin, trying a Rose-Water on its own or combined with some water to dilute it may be more suited towards you. Even using water in a spray bottle just to dampen the face so the moisture will be retained may work also.
  • Moisturiser is our friend! We want to create a soft smooth based for our makeup to go ontop of. However I would always suggest to do a patch test first to see if your skin reacts. For eczema, using a petrochemical free pawpaw ointment to assist with soothing and adding moisturiser to the effected areas. If your skin is extremely reactive I would suggest consulting a dermatologist on specific products for you. To replenish the skin a moisturiser that is targeted for sensitive skin, such as Clinique Dramatically different moisturising Gel has been said to be effective with very dry skin. Preferably with natural ingredients may cause less irriation like the  . Also Cetaphil has there own line of sensitive skin face products (Cetaphil Senstive range) including moisturisers with SPF 15 and 50 as well as some targeted for acne prone skin, which  was the range I used when I had acne prone sensitive skin.
  •   For Primer some can feel that it’s another that will dry out or accentuate the roughness and texture of your skin. You can mix in a light weight moisturiser to hydrate as well smoothening. To reduce the appearance of redness you might want to colour correct with a green or yellow tinted primer. 
  • For a Video on colour correction for eczema CLICK HERE

Texture/Mature/Aged: will have noticeable texture and lines/wrinkles around mouth, eyes, cheeks 

  • You don’t want to expose or emphasise the texture that you have, using a gentle cleanser like  Cetaphil gentle cleanser or a Micellar water. Olay also has their own range of skin care targeted at Mature Skin.
  • Individuals with more mature skin often have quite dry skin which causes emphasis of lines and texture. suncream or a type of SPF is vital for textured skin, due to sun damage causing the texture to become more prominent. For day time wear find a  SPF or moisturiser with an SPF with a consistency that you like.
  • A serum or facial oil such as Rose-Hip oil or Jojoba oil, can also work wonders, going into a skincare specialist such as The Lab Organics (like their Facebook page HERE ) You can get skin analysed and receive fantastic advice and recommendations, better then most things you will read on the internet. You will also receive a range products and information specific for you.
  • As primer goes a plumping/firming, hydrating primer like the is suited to you, Yet you may still need something to smooth out texture/lines,the Smashbox Photo Finish Primer in Light helps to reduce shine and it is water based as well as a blurring primer will also help smooth out the surface .

We’re almost there everyone! Until next time 

Issy x

Published by

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *